THE MACKENZIE HIGHWAY, NWT -- I wake up from my nap at 2:30 p.m., about 90 minutes out of Fort Resolution. To the right, scrub bush hugging the shoulder like a wall. Straight ahead, gravel road stretching to the horizon.
To my left in the driver's seat is my girlfriend, and she's not pleased. The gravel started nearly an hour ago, and we still have more than seven hours ahead of us. She has never driven unpaved surfaces for more than a few kilometres, and her knuckles are white from thoughts of a breakdown so far from anywhere.
After an overtaking oil truck nearly puts us in the ditch, she's ready to reassess our plan to take the road less travelled, and we pull over to study the map. Turning back to take the only other route would add not a few hours but a full day, so we decide to carry on -- with me in the driver's seat.
Welcome to the Northwest Territories, where the days are long, the roads are lonely and even a basic road trip means spending the better part of a week in the car. It's not without its hardships, but if your cottage road is starting to look like a suburb, it might be for you.
This summer, our cottage road is the Alaska Highway -- hardly the beaten track, but no longer the grand adventure of lore. We have lots of time to complete our trip from Toronto to Anchorage, so we're taking a 2,500-kilometre detour north from Edmonton, hoping to see something different before rejoining the Alaska-bound tourists near Fort Nelson, B.C.
Day 1
Edmonton to Grimshaw, Alta.
We fortify ourselves with breakfast, groceries and gas, and leave town by 10 a.m. Turning north on No. 43, a smooth four-lane provincial highway, it seems hard to believe that it will take us three days to reach Yellowknife. Our tires speed across a rolling range land of oil derricks and mustard and flax fields that gradually weaves into boreal forest, a mere hint of what the coming week will hold. But the road shrinks to two lanes as we pass a construction crew and dozens of massive machines, reminding us how much work is required to hew a road from the wilderness.
Near Valleyview, a young man in a cowboy hat rides a horse beside the highway -- we're still in cowboy country, for sure. Our driving day comes to an end at the dusty farm community of Grimshaw, where we debate camping before choosing a room in a cheap roadside motel.
Day 2
Grimshaw to Hay River, NWT
Grimshaw is Mile Zero for the Mackenzie Highway, the spine of our road trip. The highway's origins go back to the settlement of northern Alberta, but it was extended north into the NWT after gold and oil were found there in the early 1900s. It still carries the territory's resources out, but it also brings a few thousand hardy tourists north each year.
Still in Alberta, we pull over for a washroom break in Manning, named for late premier Ernest Manning. We re-emerge to realize we've driven into the middle of the rodeo-weekend parade. Despite the drizzle, everyone in town is either driving a truck pulling a float or watching the procession, so we look for a place to pull over without blocking the view. Clowns are tossing candy and kids are scrambling for it in the middle of the highway.
North of High Level, the fields disappear for good into a wall of bush. It starts to get so monotonous that I begin to feel dozy and pull over to stretch, but I'm forced to hustle back into the car as a cloud of mosquitoes officially welcomes me to the North. The scenery finally starts to improve about 75 kilometres past the frontier at Alexandra Falls, where the Hay River plunges 30 metres into a broad gorge.
As dinnertime approaches, we reach our second night's destination: the town of Hay River, which was established as a Hudson's Bay post in the 1860s and is now the second-largest community in the territory. We stay at the Harbour House Bed & Breakfast, where a small beach is all that separates us from the south shore of Great Slave Lake. The adjoining port sends boats loaded with supplies to the NWT's more remote northern communities, some of which receive just one shipment a year because the summer breakup is so short. The maritime feel is an unexpected departure from the farms and forests we passed all day.